ON a late summer evening, downtown Hopewell was bustling with activity and the Brothers Moon restaurant was no exception. Area diners have been coming out to support local restaurateurs — call it payback for years of community support from these entrepreneurs, as they donate their time and food to fundraiser after fundraiser. Sure, it’s good marketing for them, but it also supports many worthy causes.

   Brothers Moon chef/owner Will Mooney is very active in such events. He was celebrated in the spring issue of Edible Jersey magazine as “Local Hero — Best Chef/Restaurant.” His resume includes stints at (in part) the Frog and the Peach and Stage Left in New Brunswick, Patina in Los Angeles, and the “late” Peacock Inn in Princeton (hopefully to reopen late this year under new ownership).

   Chef Mooney’s twin brother helped finance the restaurant when it opened in 2001, thus the name, and Mooney’s wife, Beth Ann Judge, a talented artisan jeweler, has also had a hand in running the place (and is touchingly thanked on the chef bio page of the Web site).

   He’s respected not just for his cuisine but also as an early adopter of promoting local products. The menu at the 80-seat establishment doesn’t beat you over the head with the provenance of each ingredient, but notations such as “locally foraged chanterelles” get the idea across.

   I’ve visited Brothers Moon several times over the years and my recent dinner there was my best one yet. Chef Mooney doesn’t rest on his laurels. Each dish pleased us and was attractively presented. First there was a basket with warm brioche, soft and fragrant with a touch of sweetness (breads served are the same ones sold at the take-out counter). Good butter was the perfect accompaniment.

   A polenta appetizer ($11), with those chanterelles, was delicious – two soft and delicate triangles that also contained kernels of corn. On the side, flat-leaf parsley salad with shallots and lemony dressing lent a burst of flavor. A charred half lemon for squeezing added even more kick.

   Lobster bisque ($9) was also quite good, flecked with lobster meat and deeply flavored, with a peppery kick. Other items are a long-time menu favorite of goat cheese and caramelized onion tart and a Mediterranean platter of hummus, eggplant, peppers, etc. Vegetables play a starring role here; you almost can’t help but eat healthy at this restaurant.

   Rack of lamb ($29), always on the menu, comes with ratatouille this time of year. I’ve never been a fan of ratatouille, all the rage in the ‘80s, because it always seemed like an overcooked mishmash of whatever vegetable was going past its prime in someone’s garden. But I’d eat Chef Mooney’s version any time. Each ingredient held its own identity, with crisp-tender textures and good flavors of eggplant, onion, tomato and even a touch of green pepper, which I also don’t usually like. He later told me he grills each ingredient separately, then dices and combines them, finishing the dish with herbs and fresh tomato. Roasted wedges of Yukon potato completed the picture, with the lamb of course, a half rack cut into four delicate chops, medium-rare just as ordered.

   The compact menu, with eight main courses (including a couple vegetarian), was augmented by a page of printed specials, each offering a salmon dish. My friend chose the one on the regular menu, and her sautéed salmon ($26) was a real pleaser, the plump fillet looking almost fanned out over roasted squash (not a bit watery) and fingerling potatoes. The dish was enlivened by a cucumber coriander seed vinaigrette, one of several vinaigrettes mentioned on the menu, which added a piquant flavor.

   Full as we were, we shared a special dessert of the evening, in-season local peach buckle ($9), and were rewarded with a generous serving, plenty for two. The round cake with baked-in peaches and a crumbly topping came with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. A lovely mix of flavorful berries had been strewn around the circumference. Detail, detail, detail, it all paid off here.

   The blue and gold décor at Brothers Moon is celestial themed, with soft curtaining and tiny lights. It has become more polished over the years. As you enter, the utilitarian take out counter is to the left, with soups, sandwiches and salads, and the two dining rooms are to the right. In clement weather, there is also patio seating right outside the front door.

   The dining rooms are pretty without being fussy, with nice linens, glassware and silverware. I’ve seen tables literally covered with wine bottles, as there are groups that come to this BYO especially to enjoy top-shelf wines. For me, though, the main draw is good, wholesome food that is treated with respect, the smooth service, and the mellow glow that lingers after such a good meal.

•